New Year Garden Resolutions

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The garden has been tidied for winter, the holiday decorations have begun to be recycled, and I would traditionally be set with a roaring fire, a cup of irish coffee and stacks and stacks of garden catalogs and memoirs. And yet…..temps are in the 40s and I still have flowers blooming in my front garden.

I do have a number of garden resolutions this year: get my garden journal up to date by entering in all those new plants I bought this year; redo my garden maintenance chart to accomodate the warming cycle we are in; remove the last vestiges of ivy from my side yard; plant some of those bulbs I bought this past Fall and haven’t had a chance to put in.

One resolution from last January, I’ve found easy to keep has been feeding my feathered garden buddies. All year long they feasted on wild cherries, mulberries and seed heads from my rudbeckia and echinacea. Now these are gone and I’ve begun to set up my winter bird feeders.

My favorite feeder is a small lidded ceramic jar that hangs suspended by a thin wire from my magnolia; while the squirrels are able to jump to the lid, they can’t keep their balance long enough to eat much, and the birds have room to perch on the tray without spilling all the seed.

A friend gave me a lovely “gingerbread house” bird feeder from the Wild Birds Unlimited Store,and I particularly love it for the variety of seeds and nuts and the suet incorporated–the high fat content of suet is extremely important to birds in winter.

To attract sparrows, mourning doves, and towhees, seed needs to be placed near the ground where these birds normally forage. Platform feeders attract cardinals, house wrens, titmice, jays and titmice. And squirrels– so be prepared to keep these constantly filled.

Hanging feeders, such as my favorite ceramic feeder are attractive to chickadees, titmice, nuthatches and finches. These birds came to rely on my rudbeckia and echinacea all summer and I would miss their lively presence this winter if I did not keep food nearby.

Don’t forget to provide some water for birds in winter. My ceramic tray is shallow enough that it hasn’t cracked from an occasional freeze overnight, and warms up on the sunny drive during the day.

It’s Beginning to Look a Lot Like Christmas….

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The temperatures are finally cooling (although I still have echinacea and salvia blooming in my garden) and holiday decorations don’t seem so surreal.

When you think of decking your halls for Christmas and the New Year, you need look no further than your own back yard. I’ve had great success with magnolia branches, pine cones and pine boughs, holly, and ivy. I take particular satisfaction in pulling up the encroaching ivy to decorate.

While you are out scavenging in the yard–water those bushes and new plants. We continue to be 7″ behind hand in water for this area–those bushes need to have a good long soak before the ground freezes. If you’ve cut off your water (as I have) fill up the buckets, recruit your friends and form a line.

And don’t forget to leave out water and bird feed for our gardening bird buddies…another great idea is to leave some of the heads from your rudbeckia and echinacea as forage, and to plant sparkle berry bushes and other hollies that will continue to provide food through the winter.

Bulbs are Springing Up All Over, Plant them Now for a Blooming Spring

Allee of bulbs at Brent and Becky’s in Virginia


I can’t believe that it has been a month since I posted on this blog!  I’ve been in the garden every day this month–every garden but my own!  With most of my clients’ gardens cleaned, cut back, mulched and ready for a winter rest, I have begun to do the same for mine.

It seems counterintuitive as the temps cool, and the world is dressed in orange, red and autumnal browns, but this is the moment to envision the pastels, yellows,  and carnival colors of spring blooming bulbs.  Spring blooming bulbs must be planted at least six weeks before the ground freezes to ensure that they will be well established in the site.

I’ve been known to procrastinate, and have even been seen frantically digging in January to get my bulbs in–but even if you are a procrastinating gardener– now is the time to take advantage of the abundance of bulbs in the garden centers and on-line at the bulb wholesalers.  It seems that there are spring blooming bulbs everywhere you go– you can even find them in the grocery store!

If you are willing to take a risk–go ahead and buy your bulbs anywhere you see a good deal–but if you want to ensure that your bulbs will be healthy and return each year, I’d suggest purchasing them from a reputable garden center or even better from a bulb catalog.

This week,  my favorite wholesaler (because they carry reasonably priced good quality bulbs) , k. Van Bourgondien & Sons, is having a sale on naturalizing varieties.  48% off!  Here’s the link: k. Van Bourgondien & Sons.  Sale ends October 24th.

Some other favorite growers are:  Brent and Becky’s Bulbs White Flower FarmK.Van Bourgondien & SonsVan Engelen, Inc. and John Scheepers, Inc.

Now, with bulbs in hand, where do you start?  Bulbs can be planted in wide sweeps of color seen at Keukenhof, Holland or at Brent and Becky’s in Virginia.

If you are planting in sweeps, dig a trench to a depth of three times the diameter of the bulbs you are planting–for most daffodils that would be six to eight inches deep. The depth for tulips might vary from five to eight inches. Plant the bulbs pointed side up. Make sure not to crowd the bulbs–this will make it easier for the bulbs to grow and avoid the need to divide over-crowded beds later on.

If you want to incorporate your bulbs into your perennial beds,  it is best to use a bulb planter to dig a hole for each bulb and make the hole a couple of inches deeper than the recommended planting depth.  The best aesthetic result is achieved by planting clusters of bulbs in your beds rather than lining them up like soldiers on parade.

Whichever design you pursue,  I recommend sprinkling kelp meal or greensand in the bottom of the hole prior to planting the bulbs. Many growers recommend bone meal, but I believe this encourages squirrels and other rodents to infiltrate the area.

Have fun planting while you dream of next spring’s explosion of color– the Farmer’s Almanac says this winter will be a white one.

3 More Days and Counting: Green Spring Garden Fall Garden Day

Green Spring Garden Plant Sale

Come one, come all, to one of the finest plant sales in the area.  September 22nd from 9am-3pm (but get there earlier so you can find parking and scout out the best plant finds).

This is the perfect time of year to clean up your garden beds, cut back spent flowers, remove diseased plant material and assess the state of your garden.

What worked for you this year?  What didn’t?

Once you’ve made this assessment–head to Green Spring Garden Park this Saturday and meet with the 21+ local growers to discuss their gardens and yours and pick up some healthy plants to fill in the holes in your garden beds.

In addition to plant materials, you will find good food, fine music, a silent auction, a bee keeping demonstration, and a raptor show.  The weather looks good for this Fall party.  Don;t forget to bring your garden cart–you’ll never be able to stop at one plant.

Here’s a link to the .pdf for the Sale:  http://www.fairfaxcounty.gov/parks/greenspring/downloads/fall-garden-day2012.pdf

Lawn Begone!

No more lawn– new front courtyard

It’s done.   My front lawn is no more.  I now have a garden courtyard.  8 hours of hand-scraping the dying grass with my wonderful Japanese hoe.  8 hours of spreading 4,000 lbs of pea gravel.

I still need to tweak the shape and size of the garden beds, and rebuild the stone edging, but I am so pleased to no longer participate in the never-ending slog of aerating, seeding, fertilizing, spreading pre-emergent, watering, mowing..etc….etc.  The pea gravel is permeable, easy to care for, and a breeze to remove fallen leaves.

I’ve decided I need two small curved cast iron garden benches to complete the new courtyard; would love to hear from anyone who has a good source.

Front garden bed in gravel courtyard

Rudbeckia Love

Grove Drive Garden July 2012

       

Rudbeckia–Ya gotta love ‘em.

We are still in a drought (7 +fewer inches of rain than normal); we have had steady days of 100+ weather–everything is beat down by the summer weather–except my black eyed susans (rubeckia).

Click on the photo to enlarge it, look closely, and you will see three different varieties of rudbeckia–hirta (native to this area), goldsturm (a cultivar) and Herbstonne (a hybrid).

Rubeckia  is a native wildflower which typically grows in open woods, fields, and at the side of the road.  The blooms are daisy-like flowers with bright yellow to orange-yellow rays and  chocolate-brown center disks.

Rudbeckia blooms from June through August atop stiff, leafy, upright stems growing 1-3’ tall. Rough, hairy, lance-shaped leaves (3-7” long). If you prune in early June, the plant flowers later and can carry on into September.

‘Herbstsonne’ is either a cultivar or a hybrid (depending on the expert) of two varieties of rudbeckiaRudbeckia nitida or Rudbeckia laciniata. It can grow up to 7 feet tall and makes a dramatic vertical statement in the garden bed.

Hot as Hades

Flower bed: coreopsis, daylilies, rosemary, amsonia, junipers

We’ve had days of extreme heat.  Despite the rains of the ‘dereccho’ that blew through on Friday night toppling trees and bending plant material to the ground, we are still 7 inches below normal rainfall.

Our gardens will suffer from the intense heat and lack of water.  My rudbeckia are shriveling in areas of compacted clay soil and doing well in areas that retain moisture.

Here are a few  suggestions for nurturing the garden through this summer:

  • Keep Plants Mulched.  Make sure that the garden beds are mulched.  Renew the mulch wherever it has decomposed.  Don’t use fresh mulch like grass clippings or fresh manure–let fresh clippings dry a few days before adding to the beds.
  • Water Deeply. Water-in deeply and infrequently rather than sprinkling every day.  Clay soil should have about an inch of water retained per week.  You’ll need to experiment with your own garden to see how long the sprinkler should run.  Soggy soil conditions combined with hot weather can kill plant material in just a few days.
  • Stop Pruning. Pruning can stress a plant–and pruning in adverse weather conditions adds to the stress.  If you must prune be sure to water deeply.
  • Evaluate Plants. Watch your garden through the day and see which plants look wilted or sunburned. They may be in too sunny a location or receiving too much late-day sun. Plan to move these plants in the Fall to conditions where they will not be stressed.

For future reference the following plants have been found to adapt well to the stress of our hot summer weather:

Ornamental grasses, daylilies, coreopsis, coneflower, black-eyed Susan, and succulents such as sedum.

Hope the power is on soon!